Exploring Cologne: Arriving for Helene In Between River Cruise

Last month, I arrived to Cologne, Germany full of excitement for my first river cruise, to meet Helene, and had a few unexpected twists! My friend Ashley was meeting me two days later in Cologne but she had a connecting flight in D.C. so I got to see her for the first time in U.S. We had previously met on a trip abroad and had traveled together twice before this trip, but had never met up in the States. We used my Priority Pass to access the Turkish Airways lounge for a quick bite and a drink before I boarded my British Airways flight from Washington D.C. to London Heathrow. I flew premium economy with British Airways for the first time and can say it was well worth the upgrade! I then barely made my British Airways connection to Cologne, but my luggage did not (but thank goodness for AirTags!), it was definitely an adventure. However, Cologne’s charm and the holiday spirit of its Christmas markets made everything worthwhile. Here’s a recap of my journey and recommendations when visiting this beautiful city, especially during the holiday season.

Arrival in Cologne: A Rocky Start

After a hectic flight journey, including a tight connection and my luggage going missing (but fortunately tracked with AirTags!), I made my way to the Lindner Hotel Cologne Am Dom, part of the JDV by Hyatt collection. The hotel’s location was great, just a 5-10 minute walk to both the train station and the iconic Cologne Cathedral. I was able to check in and dropped off my backpack and decided to start exploring. I walked the few minutes to the Cathedral and wandered through their Christmas markets, walked along the scenic riverfront, and crossed the famous Hohenzollern Bridge, known for its views and love locks.

Dinner at Peter’s Brauhaus

In the evening, I made my way to Peter’s Brauhaus. Known for its traditional German fare, I enjoyed a refreshing Kölsch beer (which Cologne is famous for!) It’s a busy and popular place however, the staff are friendly and efficient! In Cologne their Kölsch beer is served in small tall glasses, I loved it as the beer never gets warm.

Relaxing at Claudius Therme

After dinner, I treated myself to a massage at Claudius Therme, a wellness spa in the city. I highly recommend arriving two hours early to take advantage of the baths and sauna. My swimsuit was in my missing checked luggage so I did not get to enjoy the visit as I had hoped however, I had a great massage from Anna. It’s the perfect way to unwind after traveling and a day of exploring. You will need to take a quick taxi ride to get there from the city center area.

A Visit to the Lindt Chocolate Museum

The next morning, I started my day with a visit to the Schokoladenmuseum (Chocolate Museum), located along the riverfront. It’s a must-see for anyone with a sweet tooth. I arrived around 10 AM when they opened (having purchased my ticket online ahead of time) and wandered through learning about the history of chocolate and the Lindt brand. The staff also provide you with samples of various chocolates throughout. You can also make your own bar however, I did skipped it and headed to their cafe. I had some breakfast and an amazing hot chocolate! They also have a large store onsite to purchase items you cannot find in the States. Afterward, I continued my exploration of the Christmas markets including the one right outside the doors of the museum. This is also where you will find their Ferris wheel.

 

A Quest for My Luggage

Unfortunately, my luggage was still missing, so I had to take a trip to the airport to try and track it down. Which also unfortunately meant spending more funds on an Uber and taxi to/from the airport. The airport is about 30 minutes from city center and it will cost 30-50 euros each way. I was able to see my luggage had arrived the evening before thanks to my AirTags. However, I was never contacted nor was it delivered to the hotel as it was meant to be. I spent several hours trying to find assistance at the Cologne airport and continued to show them on the Find My app where my luggage was sitting. Unfortunately, staff were not very helpful but eventually I was able to sort it out. I was concerned to not leave without it as I was departing on a river boat the next afternoon and did not want to miss out on retrieving it in time. If you’re ever traveling, I cannot stress enough how important it is to use AirTags in your luggage or any items you can’t afford to lose! I had packed a carry on however, due to a full flight staff had asked to check bags and I agreed to do so, I will make sure it keep it with me in the future. Luckily, I did pack necessities with me in my backpack so I had what I truly needed to get me through the first night.

Dinner at Gaffel: Schnitzel and Kölsch

Later that evening, my friend arrived, and we headed to Gaffel for dinner. This islocated right by the cathedral and is perfect for trying more traditional German dishes and beer. I had pepper schnitzel and spätzle, paired with Kölsch. This was one of my favorite meals of the trip! It is extremely busy but they were able to get us in pretty quickly. The dinner made me quickly forget the hours spent in the afternoon getting my luggage back.

Exploring Cologne’s Iconic Cathedral

The next morning, we woke up early to visit the Cologne Cathedral. They opened at 9AM and we were the first to enter. We were excited to climb the 533 steps to the top. The views of the city from the top are breathtaking, and well worth the effort! If you are claustrophobic, this may not be for you as the stair towers are tight and mostly spiral. If you have a fear of heights, you also have to go up an open staircase which was surprising. I love how we got to see their Christmas market village from above. We decided to take the mini holiday train to the Angel Market, which is one of the most enchanting Christmas markets in Cologne. It’s known for its beautiful wooden stalls, twinkling lights strung through the trees, and even a carousel. We then went on to visit the Nikolausdorf (Nicholas Village Christmas Market), located near the Angel Market, this one has a charming, quaint atmosphere with lovely wooden stalls and a festive vibe.

Boarding the Ship

Finally the moment we were truly waiting for, boarding the Nicko Spirit river boat to start the Cruise In Between with Helene In Between and Michael! They were there to greet everyone we entered the ship. The ship is really beautiful and the staff are very friendly and accommodating. This is my first cruising experience and I fully see the benefits of the river cruise with the smaller amount of guests, the beautiful views along the way, and the benefit of not having to continue to pack and unpack along the journey. As part of the cruise, a walking tour of Cologne is provided. For Cologne, I did not participate in the tour since I had arrived two days earlier and became familiar with the City. I do highly recommend this if you had arrived just in time to board the ship. We opted to explore the markets on our own free time and while they were incredibly busy, the energy was contagious, and the festive lights and music made it all the more magical. I had my first Feuerzangenbowle.  This is a traditional German alcoholic drink found at the markets which has a sugar cube that is soaked with rum and lit on fire.  The sugar then drips into mulled wine.  I am not usually a fan of rum but this was delicious! We also found an amazing raclette sandwich before we headed back to the boat to depart on our journey!

Cologne: A City of History and Holiday Cheer

Cologne is filled with charm, history, and festive spirit. Famous for its stunning Cologne Cathedral—a UNESCO World Heritage site and once the tallest building in the world—the city offers much more than just its architectural marvel. The cathedral houses the relics of the Three Wise Men, a fascinating piece of history that draws visitors from around the globe. Don’t miss the chance to sip on Kölsch, the local beer, served at the perfect temperature in nearly every pub and restaurant around the city. I also recommend trying some schnitzel and spätzle, If you’re interested in Cologne’s history, a visit to the House of Fragrances 4711 or the Farina Fragrance Store is a must. Cologne is the birthplace of the famous Eau de Cologne fragrance, and these two stores offer a fascinating look into the city’s fragrant legacy. Cologne’s Christmas markets are some of the best in Europe, and they’re conveniently located close to one another. The walking distance between the four main markets is no more than 15 minutes, making it easy to hop from one to the next. If you prefer, you can take the Cologne Christmas Market Express Train, which offers a hop-on-hop-off service connecting the four major markets.Cologne has eight main Christmas markets scattered throughout the city, and I highly recommend visiting them all if you can, I made it to all of them except for one.

Final Thoughts

Despite the initial travel hiccups and luggage drama, my time in Cologne was unforgettable. The combination of festive markets, delicious food, and rich history made it an amazing destination. Whether you’re exploring the city’s famous cathedral, indulging in local chocolate, or simply enjoying a Kölsch beer by the river, Cologne offers something for everyone. I love the walkability of this City and certainly got my steps in while visiting. For a truly memorable Christmas getaway, I highly recommend visiting all of Cologne’s magical markets and embracing the holiday cheer that fills the streets. It’s a city that captivates you with its charm, history, and festive spirit. Safe travels and don’t forget your AirTags! Cheers, Heidi